Please note this was written prior to the Israeli / Hamas conflict. Travel right now is obviously not recommended. We do have an interesting perspective though after visiting and seeing it through the eyes of one of the most famous artists in the world, Banksy. Read on to learn about our experience as a tourist in Palestine. Times have clearly changed and what used to be a super easy day trip is anything but - hopefully the borders will open again some day to allow for free travel and peace for all.
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JUNE 2023: When we were in Israel a few weeks back, we were super nervous to cross the Israeli border into Palestine. Information on how to visit Bethlehem by yourself just isn't available and clearly the conflict between the two region makes tensions high.
What we found out though is that a self guided Banksy tour in Bethlehem is actually no big deal. Don't spend money paying to go with a guide, its very simple to do on your own if you have the right information.
ABOUT BANKSY AND HIS HISTORY IN PALESTINE
The world-renowned street artist, Banksy visited Palestine several times starting in the mid-2000s and in fact some of his most famous works are located here. Banksy's work in Palestine has been praised by some for its powerful imagery and its ability to raise awareness of the Israeli-Palestinian conflict. However, others have criticized his work for being insensitive to the Palestinian people. For example, one mural shows a group of children playing in the rubble of a destroyed house.
Despite the criticism, Banksy's work in Palestine has had a significant impact on the country. His murals have become tourist attractions ie: why you're here, and they have helped to raise awareness of the Israeli-Palestinian conflict around the world. His Walled Off Hotel has been praised for its unique concept and for providing jobs for the many staff that work here.
WHAT TO BRING FOR YOUR SELF GUIDED BANKSY TOUR:
Your passport
Your passport
and for those in the back - your passport
Tourist card (you would have gotten this at the airport)
Rav Kav card
Cash - we didn't try to use an ATM here but from what I've read online, they can be difficult to find and do not always work with international credit cards
WHAT TO WEAR FOR YOUR SELF GUIDED BANKSY TOUR:
I dressed modestly when we visited the holy sites in Jerusalem the day prior and was irritated in long pants in the 85 degree heat to see other tourist women in shorts. So for our day in Bethlehem I decided to wear shorts and a t-shirt - this ended up being a mistake.
If you will add on the Church of the Nativity while you're here - pants and covered shoulders are an absolutely necessity for both women and men. We were prohibited from entering initially before a kind man went inside to get scarves for us to wrap our legs in. Not an ideal way to walk around but what can you do.
This aside, culture between Israel and Palestine is quite different. You're going from a Jewish but semi progressive nation to a predominantly Muslim country that is relatively closed off from the world. Meaning by wearing shorts I was definitely going to get some looks. While in the main tourist areas, I didn't necessarily think anything of it but when we walked through a local market off the main plaza I suddenly felt uncomfortable (and rude.) If I went back again, I'd stick with my pants from the day prior.
HOW TO GET TO BETHLEHEM FOR YOUR SELF GUIDED BANKSY TOUR
There are likely other check points you can take to enter Bethlehem, but based on what we wanted to see (Banksy) we chose to cross at what is called Checkpoint 300/Bethlehem Road located here. The bus system in Israel is pretty easy and seems to run mostly on time. Prepare in advance by making sure you have a Rav Kav card with money on it for this trip. You can use google maps to find what bus works best with your accommodations - we took the 234 but there are many lines that go here ie: 49, 92 or 231. From downtown Jerusalem, this ride should take you around 30 minutes.
At the last stop, everyone will get off the bus and you will now cross the border. Follow the crowds and walk through a somewhat ominous building that says simply BON VOYAGE.
Your self guided Banksy tour starts now. No one will stop or ask you any questions as you walk through - they don't care if you leave, its coming back that is a different situation. Exit this building and you are now in the West Bank.
Outside the crossing, seemingly hundred of "guides" and taxi men will scream at you to take THEIR cab. We even had one man follow us for a couple hundred yards, begging and pleading for us to let him take us on a tour. I've read some fairly nasty situations in this area so do your best to avoid them and just keep walking.
Keep going straight and suddenly you will hit the wall.
The wall is truly one of the most interesting parts of our trip to Israel so take your time to absorb the stories written out and study the graffiti.
The iconic "make hummus not walls" next to George Floyd on the wall.
For us it was very solemn to learn about the situation of these people stuck living along this wall.
You should naturally find yourself in front of Banksy's Walled Off Hotel if you just follow it along but if not its located here.
VISITING BANKSY'S WALLED OFF HOTEL
Enter for just 20 ILS approximately $5 USD. Inside you will be in its art gallery lobby, surrounded by original Banksy works. An interpretation of the Rage, the Flower Thrower is especially eye catching. Each piece has an important message so be sure to allot at least an hour to visit. A second room, showcases artwork by Palestinian artists that follow a similar narrative.
Be sure to enter the museum as well - its included in your ticket price and full of great information. I'd always been somewhat fuzzy about the details of this conflict and left with a greater awareness and perspective on life in the West Bank. The information here is in stark contrast to what you've been told in Israel.
Once you've had your fill, continue outside where you can keep walking along the separation wall. Your self guided Banksy tour isn't complete yet!
Within just a block there are two more Banksy pieces on view. Head here to see his famous Armored Dove - literally on the side of building on the most normal street in the world. Wild!
One street over, see the Girl Frisking Soldier, located inside a souvenir shop here. Don't feel shy walking in, the shopkeeper we met was happy to clear away his merchandise for us to get a good look and take pictures. He shared the interesting history of the mural and the many offers to buy it people have made to his family. They built their shop around it in order to preserve the work. I just love this picture with his products and the mural on display.
As I said, he was super friendly, I half expected to be charged at some point for our visit but he never asked for anything. We bought magnets on the way out as a thank you since he spent so much time with us.
To see Banksy's potentially most famous artwork - Rage, the Flower Thrower you'll need to head further into Bethlehem. Located here, Rage, the Flower Thrower is at least a 45 minute walk from The Walled Off Hotel. We instead flagged down a taxi, who we negotiated down to 40 ils to take us there and part of the way back. Our driver knew exactly where it was located and drove us there in under 10 minutes.
This priceless piece of art, is set on a car wash/mechanics wall in front of what was a grazing field used by Shepard's. Again, it's so crazy to see this famous work in the middle of nowhere with daily life happening all around it. Our driver came out and took a few pics, even offering to take some of us and we were back on our way.
We had prearrange to be dropped off at the Arafat Hotel where across the street is the unfortunately VERY faded Angel Hearts. Located here. I wouldn't stop here again, its barely visible and you'd be better off heading back to the border or toward the Church of the Nativity, which is Bethlehem's main square.
If you make this stop (and are interested in the religious sights) you can walk albeit up a very long hill, to the Milk Grotto. Close by then is the Church of the Nativity, which we walked directly into, without a wait (after our clothing crisis) at 2:30pm.
For an easy and delicious lunch head to Afteem Restaurant, located right off the main plaza. We loved the vibe in here and it felt super authentic. Pictured below is the Fateh and Falafel.
Once you've had your fill of pita - and Bethlehem, head back to the checkpoint to cross back into Israel. As I mentioned, there are other check points but we wanted to stick with what we knew - this was the part I had been stressed about.
We ended up walking back but you can of course take a taxi as well.
On our walk, we were shocked to see the steady stream of hundreds of Palestinian men returning home after working all day in Israel.
You'll follow the signs to the border crossing and this time go through a metal detector. A few yards later, your passport and tourist card will be inspected by soldiers - and that was it.
I assume there are times when this is busy but when we crossed back at 4:00pm on a Thursday, there was just one other couple passing through.
Outside the buses were all lined up and we were able to catch the 234 again with no issue.
Thanks for reading along, I hope this has given you the information to comfortably cross into Bethlehem and take your own self guided Banksy tour.
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