I can't say why exactly I've always wanted to go to Morocco - but when we found cheap tickets to go in March, it seemed like a no brainer.
Morocco, we discovered, has a huge clash of landscapes. It's not only the sand dunes you've seen in pictures - they have mountains, gorges, snow (!) and beautiful seaside towns. Plus a culture that for most Americans is totally unfamiliar.
With all these different landscapes, getting around and planning two weeks in Morocco turned out to be a huge logistical nightmare. The trains are great but don't connect all of the major cities. The desert, no surprise, is near nothing. And all the major cities look so nice, its impossible to pick!
We were lucky enough to have two weeks off of work and while you could shave a few days off here and there - you really do need such an extended time to see all the great spots of Morocco. Read on for a day by day breakdown of our trip with each stop, transportation and tips explained. We hit this loop which covers Casablanca, Tangier, Chefchaouen, Fes, The Sahara Desert, Atlas Mountains & Marrakech for our two weeks in Morocco.
Or jump down to read about the specific cities you will be visiting:
YOUR 14 DAY ITINERARY
DAY 1 OF OUR TWO WEEKS IN MOROCCO: CASABLANCA
What you will quickly find is that most international flights land in Casablanca. A lot of blogs will suggest to skip Casablanca completely but I've always believed that a city has SOMETHING to see and learn. Plus as you can see above, we were able to chart a loop from Casablanca to Marrakech so landing here worked well.
Our flight landed in the morning, so while we were tired, we still did our best to do a bit of exploring.
WHAT TO WEAR IN MOROCCO:
This goes for all of Morocco - stay relatively conservative. It's a primarily muslim country and you will receive some looks if you are showing too much skin. I wore a long maxi dress but otherwise had my legs covered. For tops, I would stay way from anything too low cut or sleeveless. I did see women in shorts in Marrakech but honestly it felt a bit disrespectful that they were doing so. I did not need to cover my head at any of these stops. My boyfriend wore shorts on some warmer days with no issues.
WHERE TO STAY IN CASABLANCA:
All the major cities of Morocco are based around their medinas - the oldest part of the town that commonly contains markets and the major mosques. These have narrow alleyways, are commonly car free and bordered by walls hundreds of years old. The main sights to see in each city will be here.
With that in mind, we picked the Hotel Moroccan House. It's reasonably priced (30 euros a night?!), offered a 5 euro breakfast and was within walking distance of Casablanca's medina. It also happened to be close to the train station which was a plus since we're here for less than 24 hours.
Hotel Moroccan House
04 Boulevard Mohamed Smiha, Casablanca 20000, Morocco
https://www.moroccanhousehotels.com/
TRANSPORTATION:
You will land at the Mohammed V Airport which is a 45 minute train ride from downtown Casablanca. Taxis are also available but since the train station was close to our hotel we opted for public transportation. Directions to the train are super clear in the airport so just follow the signs and you'll find the kiosk to buy your tickets. They accept international credit cards and tickets cost just 50 dirham or $3. You can check the train schedule on the ONCF website here. In March 2022, the trains were running just once an hour so regardless of the time you may just have to wait. If you have time this is an excellent spot to get cash from the ATM or grab caffeine and pastries at the station cafe. The airport is the last station, so when it arrives, you'll have plenty of time to get settled and find seats for the 45 minute ride. If you're staying at Hotel Moroccan House, exit at Casa Port.
Once we arrived at our hotel, we were pleasantly surprised to see that our room was HUGE. It felt super traditionally Moroccan and I loved that our bed was built in. Again just 30 euros!
WHAT TO DO IN CASABLANCA:
Since our time in Casablanca was limited, we took a quick rest and then headed out for some lunch. We decided to start to the area around Hassan II Mosque and caught a cab outside of our hotel. By law, cabs must have a meter - make sure they turn it on when you get in. You will quickly learn that Moroccans are going to skim money from you whenever possible. You should always carry cash and have small bills/coins. Commonly, they will claim to not have change and you will over pay for your ride.
Once we reached the mosque, we wandered into the neighborhood Sour Jdid to search for lunch. Its a fairly run down neighborhood filled with apartments, markets and small cafes. Never once did we feel uncomfortable or unsafe though. We checked out the local fruits and vegetables and finally settled for an open cafe selling "tacos." They are nothing like the mexican style tacos you're thinking of but are equally as delicious.
Lunch complete, we were finally ready for some site seeing and walked back to the Hassan II Mosque to do a tour. The Hassan II Mosque is the largest in Africa and the 7th biggest in the world. It's definitely worth the stop.
You can view the current open hours and tour times here. Tickets cost 120 dirhams or about $11 and the tour will last 45 minutes. They have guides available for English, Spanish, French and Arabic speakers. Please keep in mind that you are entering a religion space and modesty needs to be maintained at all times. For men, that means long pants – for women, your knees and shoulders must be covered. I saw 2 women be turned away so it is a requirement for entry. I was also told prior that I needed to cover my head and came prepared with a head scarf. None of the women in my group covered theirs though and it was not mentioned.
The guide will tell you everything you need to know so I'm not going to spend a lot of time here. You can tell by the photos that it’s a beautiful, intricate space with an interesting history and is well worth the trip over. After your tour, be sure to walk along the ocean to the right. It provide a new view of the mosque and seems to be a popular spot for Moroccans to relax after pray.
After you’ve had your fill of the stunning sea side scenery, make you way back south toward the Marche Bab Marrakech. A bab is the gate to the medina and heading this way will take you to the heart of Casablanca. Fruit and vegetable shops, turn to fish and meat vendors and as you walk further you’ll see clothing stores and eventually the more touristic area around what’s called the Old Medina Market on google maps. Stop at a café when you find one for an afternoon mint tea or espresso. Café culture is big in Morocco and while it tends to be very male dominated, western women are given an exception.
For dinner, considering heading to the world famous Rick’s Café – which recreates the restaurant featured in Casablanca. You won’t find much Moroccan food here but if you’re into the film, it’s a beautiful multi level restaurant and is one of the few restaurants in Morocco we found that serve alcohol. The prices are not cheap, but we found the quality to be high. The night we were there they had live music on the lower level.
Rick’s Cafe
Place du jardin public, 248 Bd Sour Jdid, Casablanca 20250, Morocco
DAY 2 OF OUR TWO WEEKS IN MOROCCO: TANGIER
Today we are headed to Tangier!
ONCF offers a high speed train connecting Casablanca’s Casa Voyeurs station to Tangier’s Ville Railway Station and you can get there in just 2 hour and 10 minutes. It is possible to prebuy your ticket, but the ONCF website is not the best and everything can be done at the Casa Voyeurs station anyway. Once in Tangier, just look for one of the MANY taxi drivers who will be happy to drive you to your next hotel. A ride to Tangier’s medina should cost you around 15 dirhams.
WHERE TO STAY IN TANGIER:
Hotel Rembrandt
Bd Mohammad V & Bd Pasteur, Tangier, Morocco
We paid just around 45 euros per night and its location was great for walking to and from the medina. This was one of the more modern stays we had while in Morocco – very equivalent to a hotel you would find in the US. The weather was too cold, but it even has a pool if you visit during the summer.
WHERE TO EAT IN TANGIER:
Abou Tayssir its Syrian food but you will not regret this stop after having Moroccan food for 14 days straight!
Gran Café de Paris an easy stop for an espresso and pastry breakfast
Any cafe in the Petit Socco
Cafe Hafa more on this later
Les Fils du Détroit this in my opinion is a must do.
WHAT TO DO IN TANGIER:
The main stop in Tangier is going to be the medina! No surprise, you will be hearing this through this article. What sets Tangier’s apart though is the white color of all of its walls and buildings. From your hotel, I recommend to start by heading to the Grand Socco. This wide plaza has some great options for lunch should you be hungry and really is the start of the medina’s markets. From here make your way, directly or not, to the Dar el Makhzen (the royal palace) and Bab Kasbah. This is where the prettiest buildings of the medina can be seen, some even set against the sea. You will get lost here but exploring is half the fun. Be sure to pause at the Bab Al Bahr for a scenic view of Tangier’s port and external view of the medina.
You can then head toward the Petit Socco for an espresso with all of the locals. Shop along the way for rugs, leather goods and souvenirs – but be careful where you pause as the vendors can be aggressive. You likely will be invited in for a Moroccan mint tea or a view of the medina from their roof. The view is scenic but be warned that you may be in for the long haul when they start pulling out all of their rugs and begging you to stay for a viewing.
Before dinner, immerse yourself in Moroccan culture with the visit to the Les Fils du Détroit. It’s a small, communal café with nightly jam sessions. Here you can drink a mint tea and be serenaded with traditional Arabic music. Its an experience that you’ll have a hard time replicating elsewhere!
DAY 3 OF OUR TWO WEEKS IN MOROCCO:
Today we are headed toward the Phoenecian Tombs. It’s a decent but pleasant walk and you can hit parts of the medina you may have missed yesterday along the way. The Phoenecian Tombs were one of my favorite sites in Tangier and provide a great excuse for reading up on the history of this region. I found the size and number of these tombs to be super interesting and its background against the ocean incredibly picturesque.
After you’ve had your fill of tombs, head a few blocks west to Café Hafa for yet another mint tea. What makes this tea worthwhile though is another amazing view. The café is cut into the rock and has multiple tiers of tables seemingly hanging on the edge of the cliff. It’s a great spot to relax and rest your legs.
Once rested, make your way to the American Legation Museum for another history lesson on the region and the United States’ involvement in it. Tickets cost 50 dirham for foreigners and can be bought for immediate entry at the ticket booth. I found this to be interesting but nothing ground breaking, I mostly enjoyed checking out the fancy riad and grounds that holds it.
DAY 4 OF OUR TWO WEEKS IN MOROCCO: CHEFCHAOUEN
Day 4 has us heading to Chefchaouen. Unfortunately the train does not run in between these cities so you’ll have to make a choice. The adventurous traveler could opt to try Morocco’s Grand Taxis. Beige colored Mercedes that leave whenever they’re full and run you 70-100 dirhams. I read some stories of crammed cars, broken air conditioners and an overall unpleasant experience though, so when our taxi driver who picked us up at the Tangier train station offered to take us the whole way, we accepted. I believe we paid around $40 USD.
Chefchaeouen was at the absolutely top of my Morocco itinerary and one of the reason why planning this trip was so complicated. Set in the valley of the surrounding Rif mountains, it’s a small city in the middle of nowhere with one major feature – everything is blue.
WHERE TO STAY IN CHEFCHAOUEN:
Hotel Dar Munir
At $70 a night, Hotel Dar Munir is set in right in the middle of the Chefchaouen’s blue buildings. So in the middle we had a difficult time finding the right alley way ha! A cute room and nice staff that helped to arrange our next transportation.
WHAT TO DO IN CHEFCHAOUEN:
Wander around and get lost! Seriously the buildings are so pretty that you could wander for hours here. I took photo after photo and didn’t stop til it got too dark. The main alley ways run along the north side of the main square, Outa El Hammam. Also in the square is the Kasbah Tower that you can tour for 20 dirhams.
On the north east side of town, there is a picturesque area where you can cross the river and eat along its side. Follow stairs down the river rocks to Café El Molino. You’ll be sat right along the river in your own little nook to enjoy all the sights and sounds of Chefchaouen. If you’ll lucky, the Lavadero de la ciudad – the cities’ river washed laundry service will be in operation. It’s entertaining to watch all the hard work that goes into washing a rug in the middle of a river. Back breaking scrubbing that seems to never rinse clear enough!
Wander more post lunch and then find yourself for dinner at Restaurant Bab Ssour. Here we had one of our favorite dishes in Morocco. Oxtail in some sort of sweet sauce that I can still taste to this day! We also tried the pastilla here – a classic Moroccan dish of meat (traditionally pigeon!) wrapped in filo that you should try if you see it. It’s a specialty of this region but not a favorite of mine.
DAY 5, 6 & 7 OF OUR TWO WEEKS IN MOROCCO: FES
Day 5 has us leaving the blue city of Chefchaeoun and heading to Fes. While the grand taxi (at $25 a person) is an option, due to the length of this drive, we had prearranged with Hotel Dar Mounir to drive us for 1200 dirhams, that’s $115 – not cheap. The full drive will take you around 4 hours. It’s worth the drive though because Fes is a completely different experience than the other cities on this 14 day tour.
WHERE TO STAY IN FES:
Riad Sara
17 Derb El Gabasse، Fes 30000, Morocco
Once again located in the middle of it all, Riad Sara was the first riad we stayed at while in Morocco. A riad is traditionally a family home. Its design is to give the family communal space which it does by having an open terrace/garden in the middle with all of the rooms surrounding it. Our room was huge and the $55 a night rate came with free breakfast.
WHAT TO DO IN FES:
You will be less than surprised to find out that the top thing to do in Fes is to explore the Fes el Bali aka the medina. Fes' is huge and the alley ways are even more windy than in Tangier. Some spots to hit include the Bab Boujeloud, an ornate gate to the medina, Al Attarine Madrasa, an ancient religious school that was closed while we were there and Rue Seffarine where you can peek in at metal worker’s shops.
Follow any alleyway you like, stopping to try freshly grilled kebabs on the street or pastries from one of the many bakeries. Just be wary of any strangers that offer to give you directions - likely they will demand money after doing so. We also had people telling us certain alley ways were closed and trying to get us to follow them the other way. It wasn't true. Morocco is after all a poor country so some of this goes with the territory - just ignore them and keep walking.
You can also enter the Bou Inania Madrasa - a religious school and mosque from the 1400s that showcases incredible tile work and craftsmanship. It is possible to take a tour or go in by yourself for just 10 dirhams.
The most popular stop - and the one that is most unique to Fes is a trip to the Chouara Tanneries. Located at the north east corner of the medina, you will smell them before you see them. The easiest way to view the tannery is to enter into one of the shops that borders it. I had read that stall #10 offers the best view so that's what we did. We were welcomed in and given a chunk of mint to stuff up our noses for the viewing. The smell is intense but also manageable. The tannery is filled with huge pots of dyes and bleaches, made of manure, urine and herbs. The workers stand directly in these to work which is a sight in itself. You will also see huge piles of hides getting ready to enter the vats or dry. On your way out, you may be pressured to shop inside the stall. I bought a pair of traditional Moroccan shoes and after seeing directly where it was made, I was excited about them. Just be sure to haggle - offer half price and expect to pay around 60-70% of what the original quote was.
Once you're medina'd out, consider taking a walk up to the Marinid Tombs. You'll leave the walls of the medina to do so but its a pleasant walk and view back at the city. These Roman tombs may be as old as the 13th century.
Check out the Jnan sbil park, which is located outside of the medina and in the more modern area of Fes. It's small but well maintained and worth a walk around. Here you can see more of what normal life in Fes is like. The average person that lives here is likely not venturing into the medina for daily shopping, instead sticking to modern grocery stores and malls like this one.
While in this area you can also check our the Royal Palace of Fez which is worth a look a walk around the Mellah - Jewish Quarter.
WHERE TO EAT: IN FES
Mom's Touch - Our absolute favorite meal of the trip. Get the ginger chicken tagine with dates/pineapple and the amlou cheesecake. The staff was SO nice too
Cafe Clock - A popular spot you will hear about in both Fes and Marrakech. Try their camel burger pictured below
Riad Fes Relais & Chateaux - one of the few hidden bars in the city, set in a stunning riad
Hotel Batha - It's a British saloon in the middle of a dry city
RELAXATION PIT STOP:
Hammam Mernessi Hitting the hammam is a must do while in Morocco and after days and days of walking this is how we decided to end our time in Fes. You can book an appointment by messaging them on facebook - and they respond quickly. You'll have a couple options of various combos with scrubs and/or massages. We opted for the scrub and 30 min massage for 420 dh. The massage was not great (if you like it hard) and they applied too much oil for my taste but I was here for the scrub anyway. If you haven't done a hammam before, be prepared to take it all off. They will give you disposable underwear to wear - and that's it. The scrub can be intense but you will feel re birthed to the world after!
DAY 8 OF OUR TWO WEEKS IN MOROCCO: THE SAHARA DESERT/THE DRIVE TO MERZOUGA
How to get to the Sahara Desert was one of the reasons why planning our trip to Morocco was so difficult. It is possible to fly, but you'll be stuck going in and out of Casablanca. It is also possible to rent a car but that requires a lot of research and hours driving. In the end, we found that taking a Sahara Desert 3 day Tour was almost the same price as doing it ourselves! After much research we booked with Moroccan Desert Tour and our guide Ali. The three day tour cost $640 ($320 per person) and included 2 nights of hotels and each days dinner and breakfast. If you go with a group, you can get this for even less but that also mean you'll be on other people's schedule - to us the $100 extra for a private tour seemed worth it.
We were picked up directly from our accommodations in Fes and hit the road. We made a quick stop in Ifran for a coffee and a bathroom break but the swiss inspired village didn't seem to have much else to see. Two hours away from Fes, we stopped again near Azrou to see the mountain monkeys. They were everywhere along the road and desperate for the peanuts we offered them. I was almost depantsed at one point!
We wound through the mountains making stops at whatever scenic look outs seemed interesting and eventually stopped for lunch. Six hours later, now closely acquainted with our guide, we arrive in Merzouga. Our tour company had partnered with a hotel here which arranged to take us out to the desert.
We packed an overnight bag and left everything else with our guide. When we went in March it was FREEZING at night so be sure to bring some warm clothes. There are bathroom you will also have access to with running water but no showers. Before we knew it we were on a camel and headed out on the massive dunes.
We joined a group of tourists from Spain for the slow crawl out to our camp. You can elect to upgrade to a luxury camp (and they do look quite nice) but for a quick night, the basic camp was more than fine. Our Berber guide led our camels on foot and the ride out took approximately 45 minutes.
At the camp, we got settled in and sandboarded while they prepared dinner. Our very smart Spanish companions had brought beer and a bottle of tequila with them - which only added to the fun. A bonfire followed dinner and our guides sang traditional Berber songs and quizzed us with riddles - a fun part of their cultures stemming from their nomadic life.
DAY 9 & 10 OF OUR TWO WEEKS IN MOROCCO: THE ATLAS MOUNTAIN
We woke up early to catch the sunrise before getting on our camels again for the walk back. At the hotel, we were given breakfast and allowed to check into a room for quick shower. After that, its back on the road.
Shortly after we stopped at one of the fossil museums along the road. A worker explained about mining in the region, showed us their hand held machinery and the fossils they preserve in souvenirs and furniture before taking us to a shop at the end.
Continuing on we made stops in Tinghir to check out the oasis in the palm trees...
...admired the cliffs in Todgha Gorge...
and finally shopped for a rug in the heart of Berber culture. The majority of rugs sold in Morocco are actually made in this region which we were told means the best prices.
We ended our long day with a drive down one of the craziest roads in the world in the heart of the Dades Gorges.
Our hotel for the night was Hotel Babylon. As I said it was picked by our tour company but a great choice, with good food and walls literally the side of the mountain.
The following day, we stopped and enjoyed the ancient city of Ouarzazate...
...and paused for look outs as we climbed through the Atlas Mountains. The temperature drops as you get higher and you might even see snow the top!
We bid our guide farewell (be sure to tip!) as he dropped us off at our Marrakech accommodations for the last stop of this trip.
We overall had a great experience with this tour. It's definitely jammed packed but you're able to see SO much of the country at such a great price that I would definitely recommend. The hours in the car were long but our guide was so friendly to answer any questions we had about his country/culture and we had many interesting discussions about the differences in our countries.
DAY 11, 12, 13 & 14 OF OUR TWO WEEKS IN MOROCCO: MARRAKECH
WHERE TO STAY IN MARRAKECH:
Derb El Arsa N 7, Kennaria, Medina
Highly recommended and once again the most helpful staff. Our room cost just $70 a night and came with breakfast, which we ate each morning from their beautiful rooftop. They are super close to Jamaa El-Fna Square and a lot of the popular restaurants.
WHAT TO DO IN MARRAKECH:
For our first morning in Marrakech, we decided to head south and knock out some of the major tourist attractions around the Bahia Palace. Enter on the SOUTH WEST corner of the palace for 70 dirhams a person. The entrance is hard to find and hagglers may tell you the palace is closed. Ignore and head on in for beautiful architecture dating from the 1800s. This was one of the busier/more touristy stops we made so you might want to consider coming first thing.
Nearby you can continue walking south to the Mellah - Marrakech's jewish quarter. It's mostly filled with houses and small markets that you can quickly walk through. To its east you can tour the Jewish Cemetery for 10 dirhams.
Work your way back west and pause for lunch on the roof at the Kasbah Cafe before heading into Sadiaan Tombs for 70 Dirham per person. And yes those things on the ground (seen above) are tombs.
Complete the loop on the way back to your hotel by walking north to the Koutoubia Mosque. Non muslims are not allowed to enter but the Koutoubia Mosque is the highest point in Marrakech by law so worth a glance.
For our second day in Marrakech we caught a cab and headed to the Jardin de Majorelle - a garden and studio designed by fashion designer, Yves Saint Laurent. The colors here are insane but you'll need to fight off want to be influencers posing in front of every colorful wall of flowers. Entrance fee is 70 dirhams and takes just an hour to see.
We took a cab back to the world famous Jamaa El-Fna Square to finally explore the medina. Here you can find food vendors, snake charmers and stores filled with every sort of souvenir you could want. Follow rue Semarine or rue Mouassine into the markets’ heart and shop to your hearts' content the various glasses, rugs, jewelry and spices. Have a rare to find glass of wine on the roof at Cafe Arabe, before heading back to Jamaa El-Fna Square for dinner. It will not be your most glamorous meal- but perhaps your most authentic. Food stalls grilling meat will pop up around sunset and fight for the pleasure of having you dine with them. Grilled veggies and rice will come on the side and you can grab dessert from one of the many handheld carts walking by.
For your last day, consider spending some time at at the Jardins de la Medina hotel. We wanted to go out on a lazy day and decided to spend our last day lounging at this upscale hotel. Make a reservation before hand and pay just $65 for a full day's pool pass, lunch and 60 min massage.
WHERE TO EAT IN MARRAKECH:
Le Marrakechi - one of the few restaurants that serves wine, they also have a beautiful view of Jemaa El Fna
Naranj Libanese - lebanese food. You've had enough tagines by now right??
Cafe Arabe - wine!
Henna Cafe - enjoy henna while you enjoy a tea!
FOOD GLOSSARY:
Maakouda deep-fried mashed-potato fritters served plain with hot sauce or in soft rolls with garnishes of hot sauce, egg and cheese
Tangia - a method of slow cooking
Rafisa - a traditional rice and chicken dish
Baghrir - pancake
Amlou - Argan oil spread
B’stilla/pastilla - make sure it not pigeon, savory pie
Bissara - soup made of fava beans and split peas topped with olive oil
Harira - soup
Thank you for reading along with us for ideas on two weeks in Morocco. I hope that this guide will be helpful as you plan!
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